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The Hook Peninsula

The Hook Peninsula, in county Wexford,
on the South-Eastern tip of Ireland,
juts into the sea like a finger pointing
towards its neighbour, the USA,
some 3000 miles away.

In the 5th century the Welsh monk, Dubhán founded a monastery in Churchtown, just north of Hook Head, overlooking the entrance to Waterford Harbor, which resulted in the promontory becoming known as Rinn Dubhán. In the Irish language, the word dubhán means fishing hook, and following the Anglo-Norman invasion, the new settlers translated Dubhán to Point of Hook. Over the years this gradually changed and today it is referred to as the Hook Head or, simply, the Hook.

According to tradition, Saint Dubhán established the first beacon on the Hook as a valuable navigational light for vessels entering the natural haven of Waterford Harbor. Reports from the time suggest this was a pile of stones with a huge bonfire on top burning timber and whatever other local fuels were available, but for sailors negotiating the treacherous waters, it was a godsend.

Seven hundred years later, a Norman from Pembrokeshire, Raymond Le Gros, husband of Strongbow's only sister, landed at Baginbun, a small promontory five miles north east of the Hook where there were the remains of a Celtic fort. Le Gros set up another fort on the site and subsequently crushed the Norse and Irish advance from Waterford, regarded by some as a turning point in Irish history. 'At the creek of Baginbun, Ireland was lost and won.'

Le Gros was killed in battle in 1182 but by then he had left his mark on the locality by building the first Tower of Hook about ten years earlier. This replaced Dubhán's original beacon and doubled up as a castle guarding the important harbor entrance. Once again, maintenance of the light became the responsibility of the monks when Le Gros vested custody of the tower, and the beacon on its top, with the local monastery, which had been renamed Saint Saviour's of Rendevan and was now affiliated to the Priory of Saint Augustine in the nearby town of New Ross.

Monks continued to tend the beacon through Henry VIII's suppressions but at the outbreak of civil war, in 1641, they left Churchtown and ceased their lightkeeping duties. Cromwell and his troops did nothing to maintain the beacon with the result that shipwrecks became commonplace. This situation continued until Charles II granted Letters Patent to Sir Richard Reading to erect a new lighthouse, which was built from local limestone and completed around 1667.

Over the years there were many changes to the light which went from the original beacon fire to coal, then oil, coal gas, vaporized kerosene and finally, in 1972, electricity, producing a light that can be seen up to twenty five nautical miles from shore. A fog signal bell was added in 1838 and, again, went through various upgrades before the introduction of the present electric horn. The appearance also changed and in 1933 the now familiar livery of white with two black bands was introduced. Today, it is generally accepted as being Europe's oldest lighthouse and whilst its beacon continues to serve mariners and guide them safely to harbor, its Heritage center attracts some 60000 visitors each year.

With nothing but the Atlantic Ocean between the Hook and the USA, it is not surprising to find that, in days gone by, the area was often referred to as 'the next parish to America'. Like so many coastal areas, it boasts a long and proud maritime tradition with many of its sons spending a lifetime at sea in the navies of the world - particularly those of America and England

In the shadow of the Hook tower, the former deer park occupies around one hundred acres on the western coast of the peninsula. The park originally formed part of the demesne of Henry Loftus Esquire and the estates of the Most Honorable John Henry Marquis of Ely. Today, the deer have gone and the land has been given over to farming.

One thing that remains unaltered over the centuries is the view, equally spectacular in summer or winter, across the harbor to the port of Dunmore East in County Waterford. It is here that many of the major cruise liners anchor while their passengers go ashore to discover the beauty of the surrounding area - and do their duty free shopping in Waterford!

Further up the coast on Lady's Island, some two hundred and fifty years ago, their British landlord evicted the Barry family - like many other families - from their farm. One of the sons, John, decided to escape the injustice of the time and signed on with a sailing ship as a cabin boy. As he worked his way around the world, he also worked his way up through the ranks and by the time he retired, John Barry was senior commander of the entire United States fleet, having earned the name 'Father of the American Navy'. His memorial now stands proudly on the Quay in Wexford town.

In tiny Dunganstown, just a few short miles from the Hook, another young man said goodbye to his family in 1848 as he set off for nearby New Ross to board the Washington Irving, one of the famine ships taking multitudes of Irish fleeing the Great Famine to seek a new life in the new world.

There was nothing to distinguish young Patrick Kennedy from the others on that voyage but when he set foot on American soil he laid the foundations for what was to become one of the world's most famous families. The high point for the family was on Friday 20th January 1961 when Patrick's great-grandson, John Fitzgerald Kennedy was sworn in as 35th President of the United States. The nearby Kennedy homestead and the JFK Arboretum are great favorites with visitors to the Hook.

The world famous Waterford Crystal factory is just a short drive away and the visitor center tour gives you a unique opportunity to witness the complete process of how the crystal is produced. You will also be able to view some of the outstanding masterpieces that can never be seen anywhere else, meet and speak with the master craftsmen and, of course, to save money on your tax-free purchases.
                                                                
If you take the five-minute car ferry en route to Waterford you'll see the site of the old village of Crooke - when Strongbow (an ancestor of President Bush) invaded Ireland, he vowed to take Waterford 'By Hook or By Crooke', giving birth to a phrase now used around the world. The ferry leaves from Ballyhack, site of a 15th century castle built by the Knights Hospitallers of St John and just a few miles from the village of Duncannon, where you may recognize the fort used as the location for the epic remake of 'The Count of Monte Cristo'. (Another Wexford village, Curracloe, provided much of the location for Stephen Spielberg's film, 'Saving Private Ryan').

The main village in the area is Fethard-On-Sea, a hugely popular area for visitors from other parts of Ireland during the summer months. When you visit Fethard, you visit the real Ireland; it is like stepping back in time. With one main street, four pubs and two churches, this is a typical Irish village where traditional values still hold sway and where everyone is welcome.

Fishing has always played an important part in the local economy and every day you will see the fishermen unloading their catch of crabs and lobsters at the dock. You'll also find plenty of restaurants around the area to deliver the catch of the day to your table, including Dunbrody House, which achieved the ultimate accolade when it was named as Ireland's Restaurant of the Year.

Other sites of interest in the area include the Irish National Heritage Park, which covers 9000 years of history told in a fascinating setting of woodland, riverbank and native Irish dwellings. The Boolavogue visitor center holds a special place in the heart of Ireland; it was from here that Father Murphy led the 1798 rebellion that eventually led to Ireland's independence. Dunbrody Abbey and Tintern Abbey are 12th century Cistercian Monasteries, and are both open to the public. The Wexford Genealogy center nearby provides resources for those keen to trace their family tree.

If you just want to take it easy, try one of the many golf courses, or uncrowded beaches. And, of course, there's no shortage of great pubs where you can experience Irish hospitality as you relax with a pint of the black stuff and enjoy the legendary Craic.

To get to the Hook is a very pleasant two or three hour drive from Dublin or Cork airports, but don't rush; in Ireland the journey is every bit as important, and enjoyable, as the destination.


De Paor, Slade, Fethard on Sea, Co Wexford, Ireland
Tel: +44 1709 769767